How to Update the Rustler 4×4 for Long Battery Packs
Use Long-Format Batteries in the Second Generation Rustler Chassis
Metric Hex and Nut Driver Essentials Set
You can install the new chassis using the 2.0 mm and 2.5 mm hex wrenches and box wrench included with the Rustler 4X4. For maximum convenience, consider upgrading to the #8712 7-Piece Metric Hex and Nut Driver Essentials tool kit. This set includes premium hex bits and nut drivers that will allow you to quickly and easily perform upgrades and maintain any Traxxas model. The kit also includes an overmolded grip and convenient embroidered storage case.
Begin by removing the body and wheels. If there is a battery in the chassis, remove it. Next, remove the 4×12 mm and 4×10 mm screws that secure the front suspension to the chassis.
Turn the model over and remove the 3×15 mm screw that secures the steering linkage. Once the steering link is free, pull forward on the front clip to separate it from the chassis. If your model has a plastic driveshaft, it will remain attached to the front suspension.
Remove the 4×10 and 4×12 mm screws from the underside of the front suspension, then remove the 3×15 mm screws from the top of the front gearbox. You can now remove the front bumper assembly.
Remove the 3X15 mm screw from the bulkhead tie-bar, and slide the suspension pins out of the arms and bulkhead. Note that the top of the tie-bar has angled sides and the bottom is flat.
Remove the 3×8 mm screws and washers from the bellcranks, and slide the bellcranks off their posts. Be sure to remove the lower bearings from each bellcrank post and reinsert them back into the bellcranks.
Install the new #7430R front bulkhead by reversing steps 3 through 5. Remember to install the tie-bar with the flat side down and then set the front suspension module aside.
Now we can move on to the rear suspension module. Remove the 4 mm screws from the top and bottom of the chassis, and remove the suspension module by pulling it straight back. The slipper clutch assembly will probably come out along with the suspension module; if it doesn’t, remove it from the chassis now.
Now we’ll go back to the chassis for electronics removal. Remove the upper and lower 3X10 mm screws from the motor mount, and the 3×6 mm screw that secures the gear cover. Set the gear cover aside. Next, remove the 3×6 mm screw that secures the wire hold-down, the 3×15 mm screws that secure the speed control, and the three 2.5×8 mm screws that hold the receiver box in place (one of the screws is easy to miss—see the green arrow). Also remove the grub screw that holds the antenna tube, and pull the antenna tube out.
Remove the servo arm and the four screws holding the servo in place. You can now remove the electronics by pulling straight up on the motor and its mount, and lifting up the speed control and receiver box off the chassis. To remove the servo, pull it forward out of the chassis, then turn it sideways and push it back through the opening.
Remove the screws securing the battery hold-down clip onto the old chassis. Use these screws to install the clip included with the #6726X hold-down set onto the new #6723R chassis. Secure the new clip in the new chassis with the screws you removed from the old chassis.
Install the battery strap hinge by inserting the pivot post included with the #6726X battery hold-down set through the hole in the underside of the chassis, and threading it into the hinge.
Attach the battery strap using the screw pin. Three straps are included in the set, choose the one that best fits your battery.
Reinstall the servo, receiver box, speed control, and motor assembly by reversing steps 8 through 10.
Reinstall the front suspension module first. Slide the front suspension module onto the chassis, making sure the tab on the front bulkhead is inserted into its slot, then push the module up so the bellcrank posts pop into the chassis.
Secure the front suspension module with the 4 mm screws that you removed in Step 2, and reattach the servo linkage.
Reinstall the drive shaft through the motor mount and slide it all the way forward until it engages the front gearbox’s splined input. Next, slide the slipper clutch assembly into the chassis.
When installing the slipper clutch, ensure that it seats fully in the motor mount and that the splines engage with the driveshaft. Also make sure to align the spur and pinion gear so that the teeth will mesh.
Now we can reattach the rear suspension module. Position the flat spots on the slipper clutch shaft and the slotted opening in the gearbox so they are both vertical, and slide the suspension module into the chassis. If it doesn’t seat fully, jiggle the driveshafts to help the slipper shaft engage the rear gearbox. Reinstall the screws you removed in Step 7 to secure the assembly.
Your Rustler 4X4 is now up to date and ready to hold a greater variety of battery configurations. Reinstall the wheels, pop your favorite battery in there, clip the body on and hit the dirt!
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